As I stepped into Jikasei Mensho in the heart of Shibuya, the frenetic energy of Tokyo softened into a serene calm. The space was intentionally sparse, with a long bar and open kitchen where each bowl was crafted with quiet focus. It felt like entering a sanctuary, a place where every detail was stripped to its essence, inviting me to concentrate solely on the dish I was about to enjoy: white truffle-scented toripaitan ramen.
A few moments later, my bowl arrived. As I took my first sip, I tasted the richness.The toripaitan broth is the heart of this dish, created from a slow-simmered chicken stock that becomes creamy and rich, enveloping the palate in warmth. This was not just ramen; this was a harmony of flavors, creating a sensory experience that felt almost ceremonial.
The five essential elements of true ramen and farm-to-bowl philosophy
Every bowl of ramen at Jikasei Mensho is crafted with a focus on five essential elements: the tare, broth, noodles, oil, and toppings. Here, under the guidance of ramen master Tomoharu Shono, each component was precise and intentional. The whole-wheat noodles, sourced directly from Japanese farms, added a subtle, nutty flavor that balanced the creamy broth. The tare, or base sauce, imparted an umami depth that drew out the full complexity of each ingredient. In this bowl, every detail mattered, and nothing was overlooked.
Shono-san’s commitment to ramen goes beyond the bowl. With a “farm-to-bowl” philosophy, he works closely with Japanese farmers, selecting seasonal ingredients that reflect Japan’s natural landscape. For Shono-san, it’s about more than freshness; it’s about infusing each bowl with the farmers’ care and respect. His network of farmers, the careful selection of ingredients, and the dedication to sustainability come together in each dish, transforming ramen into a reflection of both nature and craftsmanship.
A quiet relevation in Shibuya
Mensho could only exist in Tokyo, a city that celebrates the beauty in detail and the elegance in simplicity. With each bite, I was struck by the city’s culinary spirit, where even the humblest dish is elevated to an art form. By the time I finished, I felt I had experienced something beyond a meal – a quiet revelation, a moment suspended in the lively streets of Shibuya.
As I left Jikasei Mensho, the white truffle aroma lingered with me. It was a fleeting taste of Tokyo’s devotion to craft and quality, yet it left a lasting impression.
By Robin van de Biezen
